Dari Pakem ke Estetika Populer: Transformasi Batik pada Masyarakat Urban

Abstract

The development and evolution of batik textiles have undergone significant upheaval. As a traditional textile bound by ‘pakem’ (established traditions of authenticity and standardization in batik-making), batik has experienced various negotiations in its creation, encompassing visual, spiritual, and symbolic-ornamentation aspects. This paper presents an exposition on the transformation of batik textiles from traditional ‘pakem’ into popular aesthetics within urban societies. Data collection techniques included literature reviews, interviews, and observations. A comparative analysis of batik observations in the Tulungagung Regency and Malang City served as the primary sample. This study highlights various forms of visual aesthetic and rhetorical negotiations that shape popular aesthetics. The findings of this research indicate: 1) a transformation in visuals, techniques, styles, functions, and economic drives that subsequently shape a popular aesthetic in urban communities; 2) a transitional trend from Nusantara aesthetics to Western aesthetics; 3) the creation of local-iconic motifs; 4) a significantly higher interest in batik among youth in urban areas compared to rural areas; and 5) a decline in the standardization of traditional batik textiles. Cultural education and standardization in the creation of traditional batik are essential efforts to sustain the textile's existence and to address the aesthetic disparity that is increasingly drifting away from its traditional ‘pakem’.